Watch our latest video releases

Video 2 of our Climbing and Parkour collaboration with Toby Segar from Storror (there are 3 videos to this series)
In this video Toby Segar of Storror teaches Pete Whittaker of Wide Boyz some of the basic movements and techniques in Parkour. This is in preparation for Pete and Toby's head to head Parkour/Crack Climbing Challenge.

Video 3 will be a head to head competition between Pete and Toby to see who can take on the other persons sport the most successfully.

Video 1 - If you have not seen this yet, check it out on the link below. Tom Randall of the Wide Boyz teaches Toby the basics of Crack Climbing https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ot38BGZIwFc

Make sure to not miss on the final head to head episode of this series and subscribe to the channel here https://www.youtube.com/wideboyz?sub_confirmation=1

Massive thanks to Toby for joining us, you can find him on instagram here @tobysegar and of course on Storror here @STORROR

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Intros are boring, so we're gona get straight into the action. We try and a variety of different indoor boulder problems from slab/vert to steep.

Some require smearing footwork whereas others require comp style coordination. The boulders range from V6 to V9

Climbers:
Pete Whittaker and Anna Hazelnutt

Visit Anna's channel here https://www.youtube.com/c/AnnaHazelnutt

Thanks Impact Route Setting for the problems https://instagram.com/impact_routesetting?utm_medium=copy_link

0:00 Pete - Comp Style Coordination problem
0:32 Anna - Mantle problem
2:20 Pete - Comp Style Round 2
2:53 Pete - Push and Press Problem
3:36 Anna - Push and Press Problem
4:31 Pete - Slippy Foot Problem
5:30 Anna - Slippy Foot Problem
6:31 Pete - Compression Problem
7:13 Pete Mantle Problem

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Video 1 of our Climbing and Parkour collaboration with Toby Segar from Storror (there will be 3 videos to this series)
In this video Tom Randall from The Wide boyz teaches Toby Segar of Storror crack climbing, in the infamous crack cellar. This is in prepartion for Pete Whittaker and Toby's head to head Parkour/Crack Climbing Challenge.

Video 2 will see Toby teach Pete some of the basic Parkour skills needed for the head to head challenge.

Video 3 will be a head to head competition between Pete and Toby to see who can take on the other persons sport the most successfully.

Make sure to not miss on on video 2 and 3 and subscribe to the channel here https://www.youtube.com/wideboyz?sub_confirmation=1

Massive thanks to Toby for joining us, you can find him on instagram here @tobysegar and of course on Storror here @STORROR

Visit our online shop: https://wideboyz.com

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We climb the popular Technical Master boulder problem in 10 different ways to create 10 different grades.

V1 - Technical Master Right Hand with your climbing partner helping
V2 - Technical Master Right Hand with help on the feet
V3 - Technical Master Right Hand with help on 1 foot
V4 - Technical Master Right Hand original
V5 - Technical Master Left Hand original
V6 - Technical Master Right Hand, with Left hand only
V7 - Technical Master Right Hand, with right hand only
V8 - Technical Master Right Hand, no crack for feet (this is more like V9)
V9 - Technical Master Left Hand, right hand only (this is more like V8)
V10 - Technical Master, no arete for hands (need a partner)


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#shorts #shortJam your feet rotate underneath to form the scorpion position.

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We made a Belly Full of Bad Berries simulator and tried it a few different ways. It must be noted that this is a very rough simulator as the crack is not very deep, so doesn't fully represent it.
The most common way we see people climbing it is with the toe of the top foot facing into the crack (Trench Foot technique AKA. The O-Toe). The way we climbed it 11 years ago was with toe of the top foot facing out of the crack (Wide Pony technique).

When the crack is a narrower offwidth (like Belly Full of Bad Berries) it can feel more natural to put toe into the crack first, and this can often work if the crack is wide fist or hand/hand stack width, plus if the crack is deep enough. However we have found that if the crack gets wider (like it does on BFOBB higher up), then sticking to this toe in technique can start to feel increasingly worse and worse. The reason being the twisting of the foot; when using Trench Foot technique the climber has to forcefully twist the foot to enable it to stay in the crack, whereas when the climber uses Wide Pony technique the foot automatically cams (i.e. it wants to turn inwards to the centre point of the body). Therefore if the crack is wider and you still use Trench Foot technique, you are having to actively twist more and more which is increasingly tiring.

We believe alot of people climb this route with the top foot, toe into the crack, because like mentioned above it feels much more natural to do this when hanging underneath the crack. If the climber is hanging directly below the crack and they try to put their top foot into a Wide Pony technique, it will feel incredibly difficult to turn their hips out in this direction, the way to get around this is by body positioning. They should turn their body so face and chest is perpendicular to the crack rather than hanging down and inline with the crack, this will help open the hips out and get the foot into the Wide Pony foot position. Once the foot is placed, they can then hang their head and torso a little lower (more inline) with the crack so that energy can be saved in the core muscles. Moving the torso back slightly lower can also help twist the top foot (Wide Pony Foot) automatically without any extra work from the climber.

So as a very brief and rough guide:
Trench Foot AKA.The O-toe (top foot toe in) - Useful for inverted feet first cracks which are wide fist and hand/hand stack width. The technique only works when the crack is deep enough. Technique becomes increasingly worse as the crack gets wider

Wide Pony Foot (top foot toe out) - Useful for inverted feet first cracks which are wide hand/hand stack or hand/fist stack width. The technique will work in both shallow and deep cracks. technique becomes increasingly worse as the crack gets Narrower

Hope thats helpful for some folk 🙂

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Let me know in the comments if you want me to use a Go Pro to complement other footage i get when out on solo missions.

The routes I climbed in this video, were Embankment 2 (VS), Embankment 3 (E1) and Regent Street (E2)

One thing I did realise from capturing this footage is I should have had the Go Pro pointing slightly more downwards, there was plenty of good hand footage, but the foot placement footage and exposure wasn't captured as well as it could have been.

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We try and climb 10 x 5.13b's (8a) in a single hour, across all of the crack styles. to try and create the hardest hour of crack climbing, and challenge ourselves to failure.

8a offwidth x 2
8a thin hands x 2
8a hands x 2
8a cupped hands x 2
8a thin hands x 2

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COMPETITION TIME:
Prizes - 2 x crack trainers, 1 x crack gloves (3 winners)

Competition Rules:
1. Leave a COMMENT with suggestions of how to climb this route next year (funny outfits, different tactics, etc).
You can enter as many times as you want with multiple comments and suggestions, this will increase your chance of winning (but if you spam, we'll probably just ignore it)

2. You must be a subscriber to the channel. So if you aren't already, click the SUBSCRIBE button. We will only be selecting from those who are Subscribed.

3. You must LIKE the video. We can't monitor this, but it's within your interest, as the more likes it gets the more youtube 'likes' it, and the more it will get recommended. The more it gets recommended and watched, the more prizes we will be able to give away in the future.

4. closing time for the competition is midnight Sunday 7th November. Winner will be announced in the following week IN OUR COMMUNITY POSTS (so turn on those channel notifications so you don't miss anything). Please check these!!

The more you get engaged with this stuff and the bigger we build our community, the more often we will be able to do things like this for you guys 🙂
We'll be able to give better and bigger prizes to more people, more often, so get involved!!

The route climbed in the video is Master's Edge E7 6c

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We get Alex Waterhouse (who is also pretty handy on the cracks) to set us IFSC World Cup standard boulder problems that incorporate cracks. Alex was only 1 of few who managed to top the Men's Semi Final crack in Salt Lake City so has a good idea on the standard.
We then do international comp rules and get 4 minutes to try and complete the problem

Problem 1 is a sample of the standard of crack climbing within current World Cups circuit at the moment.

Problem 2 is an example of where Alex would like to see crack climbing go in the future, on the international circuit

Massive thanks to Alex Waterhouse for joining us for this episode, you can find him on Instagram here @waterhouseclimb

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Anna Hazelnutt climbs Once Upon a Time in the Southwest E9 6c (5.13a/b R), a steep and crimpy slabby at Dyers Lookout.

This is Anna Hazelnutt's first lead of anything above 5.9 in standard...so a big undertaking.

The bottom half is a crimpy slab with little rests. The crux is a step left at half height, and the remaining top section steepens up. The holds get more positive but the previous 30-40m of the route start to take its toll.

Anna will be releasing a full video of the process of the climb on her channel. so head over to her channel, subscribe and don't miss out. You can find her here - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCyGqObd717uKwGWf_KdNbXw

Thanks to Mike Hutton for the thumbnail image, find him below
Instagram - @mikehuttonimages
Website - https://www.mikehuttonimages.com/

Check out Anna's Youtube Channel here - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCyGqObd717uKwGWf_KdNbXw

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Music
Crossing the Threshold - Ghostpocalypse by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 license. https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/
Source: http://incompetech.com/music/royalty-free/index.html?isrc=USUAN1100663
Artist: http://incompetech.com/

Troll Wall, the tallest rock face in Europe, and possibly one of the most dangerous. The danger of the wall doesn’t come from difficulty, steepness or height, but from the quality of the rock itself; It’s loose.

Not loose in a way that you might break a hand or foot hold, more terrifyingly loose that the whole feature you are pulling on could peel away. It feels solid until something goes wrong, then when it goes wrong…it can really go wrong.

With the continuous freeze thaw cycles between seasons, plus the rocks architecture and steepness, It’s not surprising that the cliff is falling down. It’s a standing pile of rubble that is glued together with moss, permafrost and hope.

There has been a long history on the Troll Wall of success, failure, rock fall and deaths from avalanche, dating back to the mid 1960s. In 1965 two teams, 1 British, 1 Norwegian, raced to make the first ascent of the wall, topping out just one day apart from each other. For both teams this must have been one of the most significant feats of big wall climbing in the world at the time.

1981 brought the first free ascent of the wall, by a joint Norwegian/British team. Their ascent was documented in ‘The Vertical Mile’. A film which excellently shows the dangers and toil that go into free climbing a piece of rock like this.

In 1998 a significant portion of the 1965 British route fell down. The rock fall was so large it measured 2.5 on the Richter scale. There have been many further impressive first ascents both in winter and summer, aid and free, but fast forward to more recent years and its local climber Sindre Saether who has really left a significant mark on the wall, being the first to free aid lines which were previously thought unfreeable.

From researching what i could and watching the documentaries, I knew the wall wasn’t to be taken lightly. No matter what standard of climber you are, it’s impossible to out run a house sized block detaching itself from the wall and spraying itself on the approach scree. To climb it, patience would be key.

Climbers:
Instagram @petewhittaker01, @mariaugstahs

Thanks and Credits:
Thanks to Matti Bernitz for the drone footage
Thanks to Vertebrate Publishing for the photos from the 1965 ascent
Thanks to Magnus Skånøy for the thumbnail photo
Vertical Mile film - https://www.mntnfilm.com/en/film/troll-wall-the-vertical-mile-1981
Thanks to Andy Kirkpatrick for extra video clips - https://vimeo.com/29949987

Check out Tony Howards book from the 1965 British ascent here:
Troll Wall: https://www.v-publishing.co.uk/books/narratives/troll-wall/
Quest into the Unknown: https://www.v-publishing.co.uk/books/narratives/quest-into-the-unknown/

Music:
Measured Paces by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 license. https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/
Source: http://incompetech.com/music/royalty-free/index.html?isrc=USUAN1100164
Artist: http://incompetech.com/

Crossing the Threshold - Ghostpocalypse by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 license. https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/
Source: http://incompetech.com/music/royalty-free/index.html?isrc=USUAN1100663
Artist: http://incompetech.com/

Meditation Impromptu 03 by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 license. https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/
Source: http://incompetech.com/music/royalty-free/index.html?isrc=USUAN1100161
Artist: http://incompetech.com/

Matt's Blues by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 license. https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/
Source: http://incompetech.com/music/royalty-free/index.html?isrc=USUAN1100165
Artist: http://incompetech.com/

Lost Frontier by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 license. https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/
Source: http://incompetech.com/music/royalty-free/index.html?isrc=USUAN1300039
Artist: http://incompetech.com/

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#shorts #short We've been asked numerous times, 'can you campus off a stack'. Is is possible? can you do it?

A rare siting Wide Boyz go head to head in 'boulder problem off'. Pete Whittaker and Tom Randall set each other a boulder problem, points are awarded for climbing your own boulder problem and your partners boulder problem.

Tom's boulder consists of crack, inverts and items resembling choss.

Pete's problem consists of dyno stacks, jumps and quarryman groove style corners. Leave a comment with who you want to see next in the 'Boulder Off'

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The Brit Rock Film Tour is back for 2021 with a stunning lineup of films representing the best of UK climbing and adventure stories.
All Films Directed and Produced by award winning film maker Alastair Lee

UK tour and dates ► http://www.britrockfilmtour.com/

Streaming outside the UK ► https://filmfestivalflix.com/brit-rock-film-tour/tickets/

World Premiere tickets (Sheffield) - 21st October ► https://www.eventbrite.co.uk/e/brit-rock-film-tour-world-premiere-tickets-172641373997?aff=ebdsoporgprofile

FILMS
► E11 Lexicon
Accomplished all-round climber Neil Gresham seems to be the fine wine of UK climbing; at 50 he realises his hardest traditional project Lexicon. The steep and blank headwall of Pavey Ark’s East Gully in the Lake District has a smattering of tiny holds and notably no protection. A successful ascent would rank it as one of the most significant.Such a stunning line has not gone unnoticed from the UK’s other trad masters as entertaining cameos from Dave MacLeod and Steve McClure bring additional depth and credibility. We also witness one of the biggest lead falls ever captured, scary stuff!The hardest moves wait at the very top of the line: dropping these low percentage moves means a potential 80ft fall into the lower vertical section. Strap in for the ride in a film that packs a classic cocktail of big lobs, hard climbing and the moment of truth as Neil completes ‘the climb of his life’.‘E11 Lexicon’ - 20mins

► Great Sheikhs
Join Britain’s top adventure climber Leo Houlding on an exploratory climbing mission to the unclimbed desert towers of Saudi Arabia, in the outstanding Wadi Al Disah region.Accompanied by tree climber Waldo Etherington this stunning journey is as entertaining as it is revealing where our duo encounter loose rock and deep sand during the first ascents of freestanding towers; ‘if this was Moab it would have been climbed in the 60s’.We are treated to the obligatory camel ride, perplexed locals and some good old fashioned dirt bagging as the voyage culminates with an audacious ascent of A’Atir, possibly the world’s tallest sandstone tower (330m).A film that glows with the stark beauty of the Arabian desert and the sincerity of a climber in his element. (30mins).

► Kjerag Solo
A climber that needs no introduction Pete Whittaker renowned for his world class crack climbing and roped solo ascents. In this film we see Pete take a new direction with a free solo ascent of the imposing Kjerag (1082m) big wall in Norway.Pete has turned his attention to his now native big walls drawing on his life long passion for soloing to test not only his own climbing skills, searching to answer the omnipresent question; ‘Can I actually climb?’. But also align the difficulties of wet and dirty rock that often come with the inclement conditions. A successful ascent would be the first free solo of Kjerag, as well as, the first big wall ascent for Pete without the safety backup of a rope.Take a front seat ride in this innovatively filmed mini-epic as we join Pete fully committed move for move up the increasingly difficult and exposed line; all accompanied with a running commentary in Pete’s inimitable style. (15mins).

► Fall Theory
Franco Cookson burst onto the climbing scene over 10 years ago and has been leaving an indelible mark ever since. His early career in particular played out in an unusually public manner on the UK’s climbing forums, where his hard and bold first ascents on his home ground of the North York Moors would often receive much skeptical analysis.In 2017 Franco made the first ascent of ‘Nothing Lasts’ in Northumberland, an almost unfathomably dangerous route. The film follows the notorious Franco on his latest journey to climb an even harder line where the weight of previous successes hangs heavily on Franco’s mind, that and the laughable protection combined with moves he can’t yet do.This feature documentary takes an in-depth look into Franco’s past and the workings of his fascinating mind. Featuring understudy 15-year-old Tom Pearce who looks to repeat some of Franco’s routes adding another layer of intrigue. Tapping into Franco’s extensive archive we relive some truly jaw-dropping moments during Franco’s prolific career.Madman or genius? Decide for yourself with this enthralling watch, spare trousers recommended. (45mins).

Total running time - 115mins

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Anna Hazelnutt (America) VS Tom Randall (UK) in the ultimate crack boulder off in The Peak District. 5 classic boulder problems, handicaps, time limits, hand jamming, dyno winging and a whole lot of crack.

Watch Anna and Tom as they go head to head on some classics in the Burbage Valley. problems include The Dyno Wing, Definitive 5.11, definitive 5.12, The Kursk and 20 foot crack. Anna has a 10 minute timeframe and Tom has a 1 minute time frame to do each problem.

Massive thanks to Anna for editing this episode for The Wide Boyz Channel. Go and check out her channel - https://www.youtube.com/c/AnnaHazelnutt

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What are the strongest and weakest jam. which pulls the most force, and does using a crack glove - compared to going bare hand - help.

We test tips finger jams, finger jams, Ring lock jams, thin hand jams, hand jams, cupped hand jams and fist jams to see which jam is king of jams.

0:00 How Strong are tips finger jams
4:38 How Strong are finger jams
6:56 How strong are Ringlock Jams
9:16 How Strong are Paddle Hand Jams
11:23 How Strong are Hand jams
14:11 How Strong are Cupped hand jams
14:51 How Strong are Fist jams

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Rope soloing and steep offwidth climbing videos have been popular on the channel recently, so I thought it would be good to sit down and see what I'm doing right and what i'm doing wrong.

When I watched back through the video I realised I was actually making many mistakes and contradicting what I said is the best way to do things in a previous video. This is why it's important never to follow what someone else does by the letter, but make sure you adapt to ensure you are safe and happy with your systems.

Much that it can be brutal to analysis your own performance with an open mind, it is often the way to find mistakes, correct them and then improve for the future. As a climber I am constantly doing this to help make my performance better next time. There is no such thing as a perfect ascent, you can always do something better and always improve.

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We are always getting asked whether it's possible to dyno to to all kinds of jams, whether that be hand, jam, stack, head jam or foot jam. In this video Tom and Pete try a parkour style run and jump into a foot jam.

Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker set a dyno to a foot jam problem, test it and see if its actually possible to stick. this is certainly a first for crack climbing. We've seen jump style moves to toe hooks, but never running and jumping into a foot jam.

looking forward to seeing the international route setters take inspiration and make a move that requires either running into a toe hook or foot jam, i.e. the foot jam dyno

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We climbed the Height of the Eiffel Tower but in a roof and on a crack. We both climbed around 500-600ft each equalling 1200ft in total . The climb took place on The Ma Dooley roof crack in Sheffield, and took around a couple of hours to complete. Each lap was around f7c+ in standard.

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Is it possible to hang from a head jam with no feet, we find out.
We're always getting questions of whether or not certain jams are possible, the head jam is one that comes up quite often. We put it to the test to see if a head jam is really possible and feasible it actually is in reality.

We try a head jam with no feet and a head jam with feet. Don't be as stupid as us, do not try this.

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Thanks to Pete Kneen at @sessionmedia for filming and editing this episode

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We climbed Kjerag a 1000m high big wall (from fjord to summit) in the South of Norway.

The route we went to try was known as Bryllupgaven (Norwegian grade 7+). I had previously tried to climb this route twice before. Attempt 1 resorted in a new route after pitch 4 as the upper walls were too wet. Attempt 2 resorted in a bail as it started raining on us. On attempt 3 (this video) the rock is dry enough and we think we're going the correct way, only to find we have quested off route and have joined another route over to the left without realising.

Overall the route we climbed did the first 4 pitches of 'Bryllupsgaven'. we then did a couple of new pitches to join the route 'Intet Nytt Fra Vestfronten'. We climbed a direct corner system to this route and followed this to the top.

I've now tried to climb the rout Bryllupsgaven 3 times, twice going off route and one bail, fourth time lucky i guess, haha.

You can find all the topos, first ascentionists and more information about this cliff in the online topo below
Bryllupsgaven topo - https://brattelinjer.no/problem/7753
Intet Nytt Fra Vestfronten - https://brattelinjer.no/problem/7752

Chapters:
0:00 Kjerag Big Wall Norway
1:10 Base of Kjerag
3:54 Offwidth climbing on Kjerag
5:54 Climbing off route on Kjerag
9:16 Night time climbing Kjerag

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We climb Norway's most famous offiwdth boulder problem with Martine Limstand. The boulder involves climb inverted and using butterfly jam stacks and hand/fist stack technique.

We also take you through a very short crack school where Pete demonstrates in a very basic way, how to do Calf Lock technique on steep butterly jamming cracks.

I honestly have no idea what this boulder problem is called, i couldn't find anybody who knew the name of it, maybe someone can leave us a comment with its name? The grade is around F7a (I think?! although again I'm not sure about)

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5 mistakes when trad climbing which are all very obvious, but we are all prone to doing.
Pete takes you through some of the things we neglect or make errors in without even realising.

Timestamps
0:00 Not using gear wisely
1:28 Too much 'Sport Slack'
3:00 Placing gear as if they were bolts
5:57 Using a single rope
8:03 neglecting jamming

Video footage:
Weekend whipper - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kkhdWXqSvow
Robbie Philips - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pA2kkNPM0L4
Adam Ondra - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5kZDukn5JnE

Music:
Youtube Audio Library
Bensound.com

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Presenten in Sweden has yet to be flashed, watch Mari go for an all out flash attempt and find out how she gets on.
The attempt was filmed back in the middle of summer and temperatures that day clocked just under 30 degrees...not really the conditions you want for climbing hard offwidths. The one good thing is that you're sweating so much the rock becomes like butter and the cuts and scrapes are minimised.

The route was originally climbed and given a Swedish grade of 6+. It remained unrepeated for many years until local strongman Petter Restorp repeated it. It was then decided that the original grade was a sandbag (or a joke?), and has since settled in the new guide book at Swedish grade 8 (American 5.12+)

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#shorts #short Is this the longest roof climb ever climbed in a single burn? 550ft!!!
The continuous lap took around an hour to complete

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The Ma Dooley Double now stands as the hardest concrete roof crack climbed. At 8b (5.13d) it’s an absolute pump fest. Every move is the same, making it totally unrelenting.

This video takes you through a little evening where Tom takes a crowd of Sheffield enthusiasts out to the local bridge crack so everyone can give it a go and get involved.

Massive thanks to Ladoza who filmed the episode.
You can check out his website here - https://www.ladoza.co.uk/
and find him on instagram here - @ladoza.uk

Thanks to Mike Hutton for the Thumbnail image
Check out Mike on Instagram - @mikehuttonimages
check out his website - https://www.mikehuttonimages.com/


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#shorts #short Loads of people ask about foot pain in cracks and how to reduce it. Here is a little tip that works for roof cracks.

1. Place the foot/toes into the crack perpendicular to the crack edge

2. Bring the knee in line with the crack (as per normal foot technique), to twist the foot and make it stick

3. push the ball of your heel into the roof

The pressure of the edge of the crack across the top of the foot is distributed into a different place making it slightly less painful. This works best with nice soft shoes to ensure the boot doesn't roll out the crack as you lift the heel.

I climbed Sweden's hardest offwidth, rope solo. The route was originally climbed and given a Swedish grade of 6+. It remained unrepeated for many years until local strongman Petter Restorp repeated it. It was then decided that the orgainlly grade was a sandbag (or a joke?), and has since settled in the new guide book at Swedish grade 8 (American 5.12+)

I orginally climbed the route back in 2013, but as i've been doing a little bit of rope soloing recently and was back in the area i decided to give it another lap. I have to say it turned out to be a right little fight going around the final lip. 28ºc offwidthing and rope soloing don't really blend that well toegther, haha!

The route is known as Presenten (The Gift) and found in Bohuslän

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We take a look at the crack climbs of the Olympics, break them down and see what they were all about. Who paddled for glory, how was the technique and what does crack climbing in competitions look like for the future.

We look at size, dimensions, distances of the men's crack in Boulder Qualifier 4. We also take a look at the women's crack feature which was on Boulder Problem 3 of the final.

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All your questions you asked me about rope soloing, answered!
Please note this is my opinion and my methods, these are not necessarily the safest, most efficient or best practice methods. Don't copy me or think what i'm saying is text book, it's not. Do your research and select your own methods to fit with the risk you are willing to take and the style you are climbing in. Be safe out there.

0:00 How to start rope soloing?
1:12 Are the falls different?
1:47 Setting up a rope solo belay?
3:53 How did I learn?
4:28 Cost of a rope solo set up?
4:51 Best/Safest solo devices?
5:27 Newer solo devices?
6:11 second choice solo device?
6:31 Pro's and Con's of devices?
8:31 How to set up an anchor?
9:55 What to use if no Silent Partner?
10:12 Silent Partner VS Gri Gri?
10:55 Anchor orientation?
11:07 Security rope soloing
13:52 Ripping pieces when rope soloing?
13:58 Most dangerous aspect?
14:26 Worst mistake story
16:00 Free trial to Skillshare
17:29 Do I bring aid gear?
17:32 Common mistakes?
18:14 Repeats of El Cap rope solo?
18:20 How to have a good time?
18:39 Traversing whilst rope soloing?
20:33 Managing back feeding?
21:44 Back up knots?
23:42 Traxion?
23:54 easier to make friends or rope solo?
24:00 multipitch sequence?
25:29 setting up anchor on bolted route?
25:38 Length and diameter of rope?
25:53 Fast and light?
26:02 Continuous loop system?


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Pro climber Tom Randall answers your questions which you posed to him. As is expected with our audience there is whole range from silly to serious. thanks for all the questions. if you have anymore leave a comment.

Questions
0:00 How old are you, How old when you started climbing?
0:53 Is it s good idea to go shirtless in public?
1:08 Best crack shoes?
1:25 Any alpine big wall plans?
1:43 Plans for Crack Schools?
2:04 would you rather....?
2:15 How to convince my gym to set cracks?
2:28 Any crack projects in Czech or Poland?
2:44 fist jams with thumb between the fingers?
3:06 Ever climbed in South Africa?
3:23 Super Crack, how should i train?
3:48 States, East Coast cracks?
4:05 Laybacking?
4:22 training cracks if your gym doesn't have any?
4:42 Have you heard Infectious Groove's song?
4:49 Albert OK Collab
5:08 Have you climbed Requiem?
5:16 training chicken wings without a crack trainer?
5:35 climbed in Squamish?
5:48 anymore desert videos?
6:04 ever climb trees
6:19 are you on a diet?
6:38 conditioning your hands?
7:12 favourite climbing move or position?
7:17 Hair?
7:33 Cams or nuts?
7:44 Joshua Tree, yes or no?
7:56 Highest Sport Grade your 90% sure you can climb?
8:06 Route you enjoy the most?
8:22 Stretches before finger cracks?
8:44 valuable lesson from your El Cap fall?
8:58 Favourite Prank Call?
9:15 Favourite climbing gyms?
9:31 Dream Collabs?
9:47 Reason Olympic climbers haven't reached out to learn crack?
10:21 Jam sizes for crack trainer?
10:37 when are you coming back to the White Rim?
10:58 climbing on Mars?
11:08 Projects to go back to?
11:27 Wide Boyz volumes in Australia?
11:40 Necronomicon training?
11:56 Favourite Burger?
12:00 How to get into Trad climbing?
12:14 Hardest crack (not necessarily by grade)?
12:43 Teleport to a climbing destination?
12:50 Climbing goals?



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This is what you can expect from First Ascent climbing. Loose, dirty, filthy wet climbing. We attempt to make the first full free ascent of the free/aid line of Jumaristen A2/7

The route is on the North wall of Gloppedalen and the first ascent was done in 1995 by Olav Båsen, Kai Johannessen and Rolf Motland. They orginally climbed it all free except 2 pitches which had aid sections of A0 and A2.

Gloppedalen North Wall is known for being a little bit dirty, wet and loose, but this was certainly the most of all three of these factors that either of us had experienced on the. Overall we found that it was a fantastic rock climb if you are in to that esoteric type of stuff.

Climbers are Pete Whittaker and Mari Salvesen. The whole climb went free at a grade of around E5 6b (but one which needs a certain type of climbing appetite to overcome it). All pitches followed the original aid line apart from the final pitch. The last pitch of climbing had fallen down recently so we had to take a variation out to the right.

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#climbing #rockclimbing #tradclimbing

#shorts #short Counting down from 10 to 1, here are some of our biggest trad climbing falls (caught on camera), from both Tom and Pete of Wide Boyz

Routes:
10 - Tom on Appointment with Death, E9 6c
9 - Pete on Gobbler's Roof, E7 6c
8 - Tom [dressed as large man] on Master's Edge, E7 6c
7 - Pete on Cobra Crack, 5.14b
6 - Tom on Recovery Drink, 5.14b
5 - Pete on Baron Greenback E9 7a
4 - Pete [dressed as a large man] on Master's Edge, E7 6c
3 - Pete on Sleepy Hollow, E10 7a
2 - Tom on Crucifix Project, 5.15?
1 - Pete on Crucifix Project, 5.15?

Thanks to @Hot Aches Productions , Mari Salvesen (@mariaugustahs), and Mike Hutton (@mikehuttonimages) for the footage.

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Ask me any rope solo questions in the comments below and I'll answer in a seperate video.

I solo climb a First Free ascent on Gloppedalen North Wall. The top pitch was a little bit unexpected! Along the route i take you along some of the basic rope solo techqniues and systems that i use.

The route had originally been done half free and half aid. It was then attempted all free by Jon Egil and Yatzi in 2019 who got thwarted by rainstorms near the top and had to make an 'upward aid bail'.

The free/aid line was orginally climbed by Stein-Ivar Gravdal and Bjorn-Eivind Arthun, named Vorspiel and given a grade of A2+/7. In the end the crux corner pitch went at a grade of about E5.

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music
Bensound.com

#climbing #ropesolo #soloclimbing

#shorts #short This is when the Paddle Hand was discovered...Well, of course it had already existed and been used before, but this was when the term 'Paddle Hand' came to fruition.

The Paddle Hand comes in to its own when you can't use the pulpy part of your hand (i.e. The thumb muscle) to good effect in thin cracks. It has you inserting your hand perpendicular to the crack edge (rather than thumb first), so the fingers point directly up into the crack. From here a combination of power from the paddle (finger barring inside the crack), and thumb pressing help keep the hand in place.

A very useful technique on roof cracks and thumb up jams in thin cracks.
Paddle away you little crack swimmers.

#crackisback #crackclimbing #climbing #bouldering #paddlehand #paddleforglory

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COMPETITION TIME!!
Prize:
£150 worth of Wide Boyz shop vouchers with Free Shipping.

Competition Rules:
1. Leave a comment on this video with what move you would like to see in an IFSC competition. it could be made up, and adaptation on something you've seen, just be creative 😀

2. You must be a subscriber to the channel. So if you aren't already, click the subscribe button.

3.you must like the video. We can't monitor this, but it's within your interest, as the more likes it gets the more youtube 'likes' it, and the more it will get recommended. The more it gets recommended and watched, the more prizes we will be able to give away in the future.

4. closing time for the competition is midnight Sunday 18th July. Winner will be announced in the following week.

The more you get engaged with this stuff and the bigger we build our community, the more often we will be able to do things like this for you guys 🙂
We'll be able to give better and bigger prizes to more people, more often, so get involved!!

We check out the inverted foot lock in the recent IFSC Salt Lake City Boulder World Cup. This was a pretty unique move, not one that has really been seen before, which had the men's finalists flipping upside down and into a foot lock.

The foot position is similar to that which you would use on a very wide 'wide pony' invert. The competitors that were successful, seemed to use an invert technique and then with the foot, place their heel into the crack first followed by the toe rolling over the top. The less successful competitors either tried to go hands first, or if they did invert, it looked like they were going toe into the crack first followed by the ball on the heel. This is all speculation, and who really knows what the best foot positioning fo that move really is. Only the 3 competitors that made the move will be able to truely tell us 🙂

Climbers include Adam Ondra, Jakob Schubert and Kokoro Fujii + more!


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Music:
Barroom Ballet - Silent Film Light by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 license. https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/
Source: http://incompetech.com/music/royalty-free/index.html?isrc=USUAN1100310
Artist: http://incompetech.com/

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#shorts #short A compilation of crack climbing moves that we'd love to see in future competitions. Yes we've already seen some of them in our own Crack Fest Competition, but we'd love to see some of this modern parkour style crack moves in the IFSC competitions. Please share this clip with someone to provide route setters inspiration for the cracks. We've only just scratched the surface.

Check out Bouldering Bobats video for some of these moves https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AMC9Jj64xUo

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