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100 pull ups, 100 press ups, 100 sit ups and 100 squats as quickly as possible. Magnus Midtbø challenges us against the *Ultimate Lockdown Challenge*

Next we challenge  @Bouldering Bobat

see Magnus do the challenge - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MrCC0qnhdF8&t=547s

See the original instagram video of Pete - https://www.instagram.com/p/B-ejnAEJIHX/

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Music - Bensound.com

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This climbing test should reveal how hard you can climb. How much strength and endurance do you need to climb 9C?

Original test with Magnus https://youtu.be/UOBB4wkTdxQ

Exercise 1:
Finger Strength Test. 20 mm edge (5 sec)
- 1 Point = 100% (bodyweight)
- 2 Points = 110%
- 3 Points = 120%
- 4 Points = 130 %
- 5 Points = 140 %
- 6 Points = 150%
- 7 Points = 160%
- 8 Points = 180%
- 9 Points = 200%
- 10 Points = 220%

Exercise 2:
Max Pull (One rep)
- 1 Point = 100% (bodyweight)
- 2 Points = 110%
- 3 Points = 120%
- 4 Points = 130 %
- 5 Points = 140 %
- 6 Points = 150%
- 7 Points = 160%
- 8 Points = 180%
- 9 Points = 200%
- 10 Points = 220%

Exercise 3:
- 1 Point = 10 sec L-sit (bend knees)
- 2 Points = 20 sec L-sit (bend knees)
- 3 Points = 30 sec L-sit (bend knees)
- 4 Points = 10 sec L-sit
- 5 Points = 15 sec L-sit
- 6 Points = 20 sec L-sit
- 7 Points = 5 sec Front Lever
- 8 Points = 10 sec Front Lever
- 9 Points = 20 sec Front Lever
- 10 Points = 30 sec Front Lever

Exercise 4:
Hang from bar
- 1 Point = 30 sec
- 2 Points = 1 min
- 3 Points = 1.5 min
- 4 Points = 2 min
- 5 Points = 2.5 min
- 6 Points = 3 min
- 7 Points = 3.5 min
- 8 Points = 4 min
- 9 Points = 5
- 10 Points = 6

Points:
40=9c
39=9b+
38=9b
37=9b
36=9a+
35=9a+
34=9a
33=9a
32=8c+
31=8c+
30=8c
29=8c
28=8b+
27=8b+
26=8b
25=8b
24=8a+
23=8a+
22=8a
21=8a
20=7c+
19=7c+
18=7c
17=7c
16=7b+
15=7b+
14=7b
13=7b
12=7a+
11=7a+
10=7a
9=7a
8=6c+
7=6c+
6=6c
5=6c
4=6b
3=6b
2=6a
1=6a

Music - Bensound.com

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#shorts Urban Deep Water Solo. bridge roof crack climbing at its finest

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When your project gets too easy get rid of a leg, or an arm, or both...why not? spice it up a little bit. If its starting to become too reasonable, then you won't get the training benefits

Music - Bensound.com

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You only improve if you fall. If you're not falling, you're not trying complies a bunch of training fails from The Cellar

music - bensound.com

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When a crack feature can be spied on a route, its always interesting to see if any jams are avaiable. Empath (5.15a) is a fantastic looking new route with some hideously flaring cracks. Wide Boyz analyse climbing footage to see if they can see any jams.

The future will tell if they are actually right...or if they are just talking complete garbage, and a jam is totally impossible.

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Music - Bensound.com

Original video footage from Black Diamond - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jIWv6SXmrTc

Black Diamond Channel - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCqlhArHNFF556mfbmbw6Y3A

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Is it possible to jam hard enough that you split the crack in two? YES
We set the middle crux of the project and Tom jams so hard the edge of the crack explodes open

We get the drills and saws out, get chopping up some bits of wood and set a new boulder problem which can be linked into the recent cellar project, to give a whole new section of pain and crack knarlyness.

Music - Bensound.com

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#shorts crack clean and press

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Pete and Mari visit the classic offwidth boulder of Pit Pony in the Peak District. It's not exactly the best conditions with the the crack being soaking wet at the beginning and filthy at the end.

either way they get stuck in, up side down, and shuffle there way along this esoteric classic

Instagram: @petewhittaker @mariaugustahs

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#shorts Climbing Parkour. run, skip, bridge, dyno, jam

Mari heads to the Wide Boyz cellar with Tom and Pete to try the project. Blood was drawn and fails were definitely...well in full flow from Pete.

Tom also finds some great booty for the webshop. Going once, going twice, sold!!

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Music - Bensound.com

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#shorts thin campussing, with tiny moves. The Lopez Campus

A horizontal journey to establish Britain's biggest roof climb. The route in its entirety is around 100m and is broken down into 3 pitches.

This route requires squeezing, chimneys, cracks and big British sea cliff adventure. 100m and 3 pitches of

In this video Pete tries to climb his new project over a number of sessions, with a few hiccups along the way.

Clip credit:
Boris Johnson clip - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LlJIwTd9fqI&t=113s

Music Credit:
Funkorama by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 license. https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/

Source: http://incompetech.com/music/royalty-free/index.html?isrc=USUAN1100474

Artist: http://incompetech.com/

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#climbing

Tom Randall climbs the full crux of the new cellar project (full video of this session coming soon). Now all we need to do is climb the first crux and then link it all together with some pumpy 'tin hands' in between. Spicy

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#shorts 1 Finger Campus - Insane Strength

Music - bensound.com

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Originally the crux was predicted to be an 'absolute minimum of F8A'...The crux of the cellar project eventually gets climbed, but then it gets downgraded.

Check out the latest video from the Wide Boyz crack cellar and tune in to see how the project is developing

Music credit - www.bensound.com

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We take you through 5 simple training exercises that will make you a stronger crack climber.

To buy a Crack Trainer please visit our online shop https://wideboyz.com/wide-boyz-shop/

Exercise 1: The The Arm Bar and Shoulder Bar hang
example reps and sets for Shoulder Bar:
- (7 second intensity, 3 second rest) x 6. 1 min rest. repeat 3 times
- repeat the above 3 - 5 times with 5+ minutes rest between

example reps and sets for Arm Bar:
- 5 second max hang. 1-2 min rest. repeat 3 times
- repeat the above 3 - 5 times with 5 minutes rest between

Exercise 2: Calf Lock sit ups
- Make the exercise easier, stand further away from the wall
- make the exercise easier, stand closer to the wall

Exercise 3: Knee Bar side to side sit ups
example reps and sets:
- weight of your choice depending on ability
- 5 reps each side. 2 minute rest. repeat 4 times
- repeat the above 3 times. (60 rotations in total)

Exercise 4: Crack Transfer Drill
- make the exercise easier, move the cracks closer together
- make the exercise harder, make the jams more difficult for example thin hand jams

Exercise 5: Jamming to normal face climbing pump transfer
example reps and sets:
- 5 minutes of crack climbing to gain a pump
- followed by 1 minute on the crack trainer face holds

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Mari climbing Hallingfall in Sogndal. This is some old footage from the summer. But because everyone liked Mari so much in our last video we decided to put a longer sequence together of her on this climb.

We made another video with some of this footage comparing the different sequences that Pete, David and Mari used on it. You can see the video here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nbc0ytdo2To&t=10s

The climb is Hallingfall and graded Norwegian 8, and about E5 6b in English money. For the Americans out there, i'll let you take both those grades then try and configure it into the American system! good luck 😉

First ascent by Sigbjørn Veslegard

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Mari sets herself the goal of flashing The Dirty Dozen Challenge and producing a top quality joke at every route.

Follow her round a dozen of Brimhams slots, squeezes and nasty wide offerings from S to E6.

List of routes
1. Inside Out - S 4a
2. Crackaroo - S 4b
3. Top Dead Centre - HS 4b
4. Constrictor Chimney - VS 4c
5. Harry's Crack - VS 4c
6. Closet Crack - VS 4c
7. Central Crack - VS 5a
8. Desperation Crack - HVS 5b
9. Bog Crack - E1 5b
10. Roadside Crack - E1 5b
11. Tube Break - E3 6a
12. Gigglin' Crack - E6 6c


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Century Crack was climbed back in 2011 by The Wide Boyz, in this video Tom revisits some of the training exercises that they used to do to help train for the worlds hardest offwidth climb.

Everything felt quite reasonable apart from one stand out exercise! They must be offwidthing rusty

Exercises include:
0:00 - 1. The Century Box
4:39 - 2. Double fist stacking
6:07 - 3. Leg Jam Trainer
6:38 - 4. The Hastonater
12:43 - 5. The Kneebar Situp Machine

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The @Bouldering DabRats give Pete 3 challenges over a weekend of crack climbing. blind taping, speed taping and a steep one handed boulder.

The boulder problem which was tried is the end of a problem called Zippotrocity and is around V4. Not that simple when its quite steep!

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Watch session 3 on the updated cellar project. Session 1 we set the project and worked out a few moves. Session 2 some links were made. Maybe in session 3 Tom and Pete could link the crux boulder problem.

hard paddle hand moves were made, new sequences were found, Tom takes inspiration from Daniel Woods to remember hand and foot moves, plus he also throws a big one out and predicts how Adam would get on down in the cellar. I think he might have set himself up big time on that.

Original Daniel Woods footage - https://youtu.be/hDZZhEHBaEA
From - https://www.youtube.com/user/Outsidetelevision

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Buy a Wide Boyz Crack Trainer here - https://wideboyz.com/wide-boyz-shop/

This is an instructional video on how to build a Wide Boyz Crack Trainer.
Pete takes you through step by step how to put your Wide Boyz Crack Trainer together.

The Wide Boyz Crack Trainer with Soft Grip is a simple, lightweight, two piece adjustable crack system, for home use or training areas within climbing gyms. It can be used as a single unit for crack specific exercises and dialling in your technique or multiple units can be added together to do full boulder problems and circuits. The product comes in a flat packed style which is easily assembled and installed by the user. Soft Grip is provided with this product and can be installed within the assembly process, plus easily replaced at a later date if worn.

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#crackclimbing #cracktrainer #wideboyz

Buy our Wide Boyz Crack Trainer here - https://wideboyz.com/wide-boyz-shop/

The Wide Boyz Crack Trainer is a simple, lightweight, two piece adjustable crack system, for home use or training areas within climbing gyms. It can be used as a single unit for crack specific exercises and dialling in your technique or multiple units can be added together to do full boulder problems and circuits. The product comes in a flat packed style which is easily assembled and installed by the user. Soft Grip can be added and replaced at a later date by the user if required.

The jamming area is plain wood or Soft Grip lining which gives options for endurance, power endurance or strength based sessions.

A note from The Wide Boyz:

“We climb using both a Soft Grip and a wooden jamming surface. Having both options lets us tailor our training and climbing sessions to the intensity we want, enabling us to dial in our technique and get stronger quicker”

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#crackclimbing #cracktrainer #wideboyz

It's what the title says. There are 3 girls. There is 1 crack and you'll just have to watch and find out if Pete can make the 30 minute mark!

Thanks to the @Bouldering DabRats  for being a great laugh and for a good weekend. look forward to some more videos in the future. Maybe we can bring some cracks to London 🙂

We will be bringing out one more video with Annie, Di and Xian on our channel. In that episode they set Pete a few challenges...

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#4k #crackclimbing #wideboyz

We have new products on their way to you soon. Home climbing will become so much easier!

New Cracks, New Walls, New gloves, tees, training devices, advice, its all coming! As well as hanging underneath bridges, running around the Lake District, breaking records and free soloing big walls, We have been working really hard over the summer to bring you more from the Wide Boyz business in the form of products. We haven't just been sat twiddling our thumbs, we want to bring you the crack climbing joy and goods.

remember to keep you eye on our website and social media channels for everything new and on its way out. Thanks everyone!


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Tom said it... this place is better than Indian Creek!! Wide Boyz head to Edinburgh to sample some of the finest roof crack climbing around on a crag that's never wet

We teamed up with @Robbie Phillips and Culann and they showed us their urban cracks in Edinburgh for the weekend. There are repeats up to 5.13b (yes they use the YDS on a bridge crack in Scotland) and the first ascent of an unclimbed project.

Check out Episode 2 of the weekend over on Robbie's channel here, its another cracker https://youtu.be/L8zOORlNqi0

Thanks to Michael Cassidy for use of the Thumbnail photo. check him out here www.michaelcassidyphotography.com

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#climbing #crackclimbing #wideboyz

Wide Boyz test and try the new Cellar crack project to find out just how hard it really is. Oh yes, the crux is desperate.

Will this be the first 9a crack climb? Who knows, as I have no idea whether we'll be able to link the whole thing together. The moves of the crux seem ok individually, but combining them all in together, and then linking it into a roof crack pump fest could be...well interesting!

0:00 Will this be the FIRST 9a crack climb?
0:29 Breakdown of the project
1:53 Working the start of the crux
5:13 Working the end of the crux
7:46 Do you think it's 9a Tom?

Thumbnail photo Andrew Burr
Instagram - andrew_burr

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This climb is harder than the recent crack we set with Magnus Midtbø. The Wide Boyz made some adaptions to Tom's cellar to build what could be the hardest indoor crack.

This one ain't going to be easy. We take you through what its like to do half of the old crack route and then set about making it completely desperate

Thumbnail photo Andrew Burr
Instagram - andrew_burr

0:00 The HARDEST Crack Climb Ever Built?
0:56 Pete tests his base fitness
3:24 Tom tests his base fitness
5:51 Crack climbing in wellies
6:45 Setting a new project
9:59 How hard is the project?

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#climbing #wideboyz

Silence, Ultra-Rock and crack in competitions are just some of the random topics covered. 3 months of separate projects, we chat through what the heck has been going on.

What has Tom been up to running around the Lake District and why did he decide to enter the world sky running series?

Why did Pete think it was a good idea to hang dog all over the worlds hardest route?

And what is going on with cracks in competitions these days!?

Photos:
Mike Hutton - @mike.hutton.771 and https://www.mikehuttonimages.com/
Coldhouse - https://coldhousecollective.com/
Robbie Philips - robbiephilips_
Talo Martin - @talomartin

0:00 Wide Boyz talk 'SILENCE' and Ultra-rock
0:50 Ultra-Rock
5:22 The Profile Wall
7:02 Silence
11:56 Cracks in competitions
13.25 Bridge roof cracks
14:15 Give us your suggestions

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#climbing #silence #ultrarock

Some might call Butterfly jamming on vertical or slightly overhanging offwidths, one of the hardest crack sizes. However in this Crack School, we show you a range of techniques that will have you stacking up this width of crack in no time.

We take you through the do’s and the don’t, what is best and what is, well…not so good.

The first thing we look at is Butterfly Jams (hand/hand stacks). we look the best orientation of the stack, the depth it should be in the crack, and which hand to cross over which to make sure it correlates with the correct body part you are putting in.

The second thing we look at is the inside leg (calf lock), the height in which this should be placed and the mechanics which go on with the leg and foot when it is inside the crack.

The third thing we look at is the outside foot. We look at both ‘toe in’ and ‘heel in’ to the crack techniques, what people prefer to use and what works the best.

0:00 climb off widths, with Butterfly Jams & Calf Locks
0:38 How to butterfly jam
5:27 How to Calf lock
7:56 How to jam your outside leg and foot
10:53 The difference between ‘toe in’ and ‘heel in’

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Silence is the hardest rock climb in the world, and seeing as though a very small portion of the crux has a crack on it, we wanted to see if we could find some jams and actually hang on!

Note from Pete:
Just making it clear on a few points right from the beginning 🙂

I never started the crack from ‘below the crack’, so I have no idea whether the sequence I was using would in fact work when climbing from below. Yes, you can get your hands and feet into the positions I had them in, but whether you can get them into these positions well enough to enable you to execute the crack climbing sequence above, I’ve no idea.

The crack climbing sequence that I used wasn’t simple, it involved thin and technical foot and hand jamming. Secure, but technical and difficult would be my words to describe it.

I hope it’s an alternative sequence that someone strong enough can climb into, use effectively and find useful for a future ascent.

And of course thanks to Adam, for bringing this route to light, sending us some comments and continuing to lead our sport with inspiration for everyone.


Note from Adam:
I really enjoyed watching this video and I was looking forward to when Pete or Tom would finally check it out. Linking the crux (even though there are harder single moves lower down) was jamming my left foot properly, while being super extended holding the slopey hole with right hand down low, and then getting into the holds right underneath the foot jam. From there on, it was all about this massive drop knee, which makes the “crack section” a one mover, instead of technical jamming and making more moves.

I would often get into the position where Pete is starting from, with my foot jam sliding half out and there was no way to drop the knee, because I was in the air before I dropped the knee.
At the same time, if the foot jam stuck perfectly, I would never fall in the drop knee any more. So, I do not think that the new jamming beta would help me because you still need the foot jam in the correct place in order to move your feet higher.

In my point of view, I guess the new beta might be similar difficulty for me (I totally agree I still have a lot to learn about jamming though), but new beta requires wearing flat shoes on both feet (instead of soft downturn shoe on my right) which would definitely make the other sections harder for me.

Great news is that the route is possible without dislocating the knee though, which makes the route much better!

0:00 Silence, can the crack be jammed?
5:00 Climbing
10:05 How difficult is the jamming?

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#wideboyz #adamondra #climbing

Some simple rope solo climbing tips. These are just some very basic solo tips from Pete. Voice over commentary, whilst rope soloing a wide hand, fist and offwidth crack.

rope soloing is a very specific technique with lots of different ways and methods of performing it. Pete shares some very basic and simple tips, that he uses when rope solo free climbing. remember to ask any questions in the comments and we'll do our best to answer them for you

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#climbing #crackclimbing #wideboyz

Recovery Drink is considered to be one of the worlds hardest crack climbs. In this video we take you through some of the things that maybe you didn't know about this route.

0:00 Worlds Hardest Crack Climb, what you don't know
0:28 Recovery Drink doesn't have a start or finish
1:11 Recovery Drink is harder to abseil than it is to climb
2:29 Recovery Drink is getting harder and easier all the time
3:11 Recovery Drink has many different sequence options

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#climbing #crackclimbing #wideboyz

Chicken Wings and crack climbing; how should you use them, when should you place them and should you have BBQ sauce on them.

In this video we look at how to execute chicken wings when crack climbing and the correct arm, elbow and hand position to do it effectively. We look at when you should use chicken wing high and chicken wing low and the difference between these.

We look at the inside leg in the crack, the outside arm and foot and the rolls all these play to keep us on and in the crack and also help us move upwards. If you get chicken winging to work well then they should feel absolutely bomber and one of the most secure crack techniques out there.

Make sure you leave us any comments below if you don't understand anything or want to ask more, and we will do our best to give you an answer to help.

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#climbing #wideboyz #crack school

Crack climbing is usually perceived as painful, however we usually say if its painful you're doing it wrong... sometimes however the rule is broken.

This crack boulder problem although being an absolute classic, had a sharp offset which required some subtle body positions to provent it from being incredibly painful across the forearm.

The remainder of the video, documents a few other classic Norway boulders climbed by either Pete or Mari. Mostly crack, but one a crimper.

0:00 Pete - Hampus drakk sprit, klatre sparagmit 7C+
3:34 Mari - Hampus drakk sprit, klatre sparagmit 7C+
5:34 Pete - Alle Mine Hender 7A+
6:35 Mari - Riss Bulderen 7C
7:51 Pete - Tunge Tider 8A


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#crackclimbing #climbing #bouldering

Do you want to be able to swim up that awkward offwidth size? The Arm Bar width. This 'how to arm bar in offwidth cracks' crack school, will give you the tips and tricks you need to make it feel simple.

We look at how to Arm Bar, how to Shoulder Bar and the different arm positioning for the steepness of crack. We also look at body positioning and how the engagement of the shoulder can make a huge difference to the quality of the jam.

The inside leg and outside foot is also looked at, and finally we take you through the principles of moving on this width of crack.

remember to ask us your questions in the comments below about anything you saw but didn't understand in the video, or just any pressing questions that you might have for us, and we will give you a reply with an answer 🙂

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#climbing #wideboyz #offwidthclimbing